Tuesday 5 January 2010

A belated Christmas in Germany



Dresden Christmas Market is the oldest in Germany (or so they say anyway), apparently dating back to the 1400s, so it is pretty big and pretty good, I would say!





Stollen is a big deal in Dresden: there is a special Dresdner Stollen which differs from other types in that it contains no marzipan (so my flatmate tells me). On the second weekend of Advent the Stollenfest takes place, where a four-tonne stollen is paraded through the streets, followed by a massive knife, and a stollen queen is also chosen! You can also buy 'Mohnstollen' which is stollen made from poppy seeds - it looks a bit like marble cake because the poppy seed mixture is swirled through a plain stollen mixture. Of course the heart shaped Lebkuchen are also easy to find at the market, and I have to say, as much as I love mince pies, I think German Christmas food, at least the sweet things, is much more exciting. The markets also have a big range of savoury food like crepes and waffles, and, naturally, sausages.



Dresden has a fair few stalls selling the wooden decorations and toys from the Erzgebirge region of Saxony, which is famous for the delicately carved wooden items that it produces. The illuminated Christmas stars are also often to be seen hanging in windows as you walk down the residential streets here.


The religious aspects of Advent seem to be more obvious over here, such as the lighting of a candle on every Sunday in Advent. I've also seen some (less religious) amazing Advent calendars, such as a Playmobil calendar where you get a new toy every day! Räucherhäuse (a little model house with a scented candle inside) also seem to be common Christmas decorations. Of course Nikolaustag is also an important event during Advent, and I was also lucky enough to find chocolate in my shoes this year! I was in Vienna on that weekend and in the club I was dancing away in we were surprised to be asked to clear the dancefloor half-way through the night. And then even more surprised to find about 10 or 15 men walk onto the floor dressed in Krampus costumes, kneel down and then get up and walk off one by one! Wikipedia tells me it's tradition for young men to dress up like this in the first few weeks of December, but at the time we were a bit clueless as to what was going on!


Christmas itself differs from a British Christmas in that presents are received on the 24th, when the Weihnachtsmann makes a personal appearance. From what my students have told me the traditional food involves a Kartoffelsalat, sausages and often goose or duck, although not always. I think that over-eating and watching too much television is a common part of a German Christmas day too!

New Year is also a time for big celebrations in Germany. There will be an outdoor concert in the centre of Dresden and a fireworks and light show. My mentor teacher also tells me that crackers are traditionally pulled at New Year celebrations, not at Christmas.

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